29 hours later and I was back at Kanyakumari station for the relatively short hop up to Thiruvananthapuram (which I can both spell and say!) or Trivandrum as it used to be known. This 2 hour hop covering 80 odd kilometres was taking me along a very scenic part of the route I missed due to the later arrival of the Vivek Express. It was a very tranquil journey and typical Keralan landscapes – until the encounter at a halt with a long eared, evil eyed Goat, who stared at me from a patch of grass by the side of the line with some serious intent. Seriously gave me the heebie jeebies!
I think my original plan was to wander around the city but I decided to opt for the chilled out vibe of Kovalam beach, just 35 minute auto-rickshaw ride away. Uber quoted RS500 which seemed reasonable so I took that. On the way, I was told the beach was closed and we could go somewhere else. I’ve learnt not to accept such advice. Sure enough the beach was very much open and quite full, with a surprising number of western tourists – perhaps this is many people’s only experience of India? The sea looked very inviting but with an overnight train to Mumbai and no towel I opted for a traditional Ayurvedic massage and one that hopefully would be an improvement on the one I had in Kanyakumari. And indeed it was. I went for my favourite treatment called Shirodhara. If you are in anyway the slightest bit tired or stressed, this is just the ticket. At the very end, warm oil is slowed poured on your forehead from left to right and you just drift off somewhere right on the edge of sleep and back again, and then back to the edge of sleep and so on. It was 90 minutes of absolute pure bliss for about £25 and the shame was that I was headed out on the night train up to Mumbai. In fact, I was to loose the benefits in more ways than one as shortly after coming back down to earth from the massage, I could tell my head cold was getting stronger.
I stayed a while longer at the beach, writing up my blog with lunch and a Kingfisher beer – this time a more sensible 5%. I had some grilled fish with chips (not by request!!!) and a naan that was fairly average. I wasn’t 100% sure the fish was cooked properly. I was also kicking myself that I allowed the juice stand at Thiruvananthapuram station to use their water mixed in with my freshly squeezed orange when I had my own bottle with me. We will come back to that!
Returning back to Thiruvananthapuram Station, I asked the first auto-rickshaw driver how much and he said Rs500, which sounded perfect seeing it was the same price as coming and we headed off in a brand spanking new auto-rick. He seemed very proud of it and I told him to look after it when I paid him and said goodbye. I did initially think he’d pulled a fast one on me as the station looked completely different. It was simply another entrance.
As I sat waiting for the Radjhani Express that was leaving at 19:00, I could feel myself getting worse on all fronts. The next 24 hours proved to be the most challenging in many respects. Sleep was disturbed throughout the whole night with stops and very noisy boarding. I was too cold and too hot (mostly because I was top side berth, directly beneath the aircon). In the morning, not that it had a specific starting point, I felt sick, suffered bad continual heartburn and had a complete loss of appetite and energy. I could barely get up and it took me many minutes to summon the energy to just get upright. This little luxury soon disappeared and I realised that I would have to summons the energy to get to…the toilet. Yup, after 11 days – what everyone worries about when they come to India – struck. Instantly, I took to Enterosgel – product placement warning – but it works a treat. Avoided all food for the day and took 4 sachets through the day. It all made for a very unpleasant experience but I feel I did well for so long!
The change from the Radjhani to the commuter train at Vasai Road, just north of Mumbai was easy just a little slow taking me to Churchgate, which I didn’t really need, and I arrived at my hotel about 36 hours after leaving Kanyakumari, albeit with a beach stop! I rolled in to my one slice of luxury on the ground trip – The Intercontinental on Marine Drive – (although I have to say the Radjhani Express I am now from Mumbai to Delhi is pretty nice and bombing along at a fair rate of knots) looking and feeling pretty rough with a pretty grimey backpack. In a video call with my wife and daughter they both said I looked fine and sun-tanned.
I had been looking forward to a G&T but had no desire for one. I was buoyed however when I was told I’d been double upgraded to a junior suite. Product placement no.2 – I really love the IHG One Rewards Program and especially the Ambassador Membership. Thanks IHG! I literally indulged in a powerful, warm shower with lovely products and collapsed in to crisp clean white sheets (on a bed with a mattress protector). I’m perfectly happy to rough it – I think it keeps you grounded and gets you closer to understanding a country – but a slice of luxury is sometimes a necessity. That night was one of them.
