Nearly 3hrs in to my ride to Kolkata and bombing along at a decent rate of knots. Time really does seem to fly!
Train schedules had determined I would spend a full day in Chennai and I had two options open – go and revisit a wonderful place I spent a lot of time in 25 years ago, or explore Chennai. I opted for the former. Something is not pulling me towards Chennai and may be I am doing the city a great dis-service?
I had been rudely awakened at around 05:00 by some awful screaming. It was quite alarming. I let it go on a little while thinking it would stop but it didn’t. I cautiously opened the door and was shocked to see 2 Indian women going hell for leather for each other. One smacked the other quite hard around the head and then I am sure she pulled off what I thought was a blonde wig. I wasn’t going to get involved but phoned reception and asked for security. I think they came but the shouting seemed to go on for some time. As I nodded back off to sleep I was further disturbed by some men returning shouting.
Apparently there had been some party and they were all drunk. The police were called and took the women away.
I had arranged for a car to take me to the temple coastal town of Mamallapuram, the used to be called Mahabalipuram, which has some lovely 7th and 8th century temples and carvings. I perhaps most remember the town for spending a few days hooked up to a drip suffering from amoebic dysentery but also for some time that I spent there when my sister joined me and we met a yogi on a hill top whilst watching sunrise.
I wasn’t keen on taking a car for a whole day but determined it was the only feasible option as the temples lay 1.5hrs south. It proved to be a good idea. I had told the hotel and driver that I didn’t want to go to any shops (usual trick that is pulled). Our first stop was at a living museum showcasing the way of life in various southern India states. I thought I’d probably only be there an hour tops but ended up staying 2.5hrs as it was so good. Already the advantages of a driver for the day were clear. As I left, the car park was chocker, and crowds of people were pouring in. Arriving at opening time could’ve made a difference to my experience to that of arriving at this point.
Mamallapuram looked a lot busier and built up than I remembered. I’d been dropped off at a seafood restaurant recommended by my driver and other than the fact that a rather assertive waiter tried to get me to order a massive Rs2,500 crab or king prawns that weren’t that large at Rs500, I pushed back enough for a more reasonably sized and priced black snapper that was grilled with spices and very delicious.
I think this was the street where I had stayed, as well as when I stayed with my sister but I couldn’t see the hospital where I spent some time. (Great, its 11am, and someone is already snoring loudly on this train – a feature of the sleepers). I took a quick walk on the beach but it was pretty hot so headed to the temples. They were surrounded by a string of the usual tourist tat stalls but again I didnt remember that from my first visit. The temples were as lovely as I remembered but by this point the heat was getting to me. From there, we headed to the main hillside group of temples and carvings and a massive boulder called Krishnas Ball that is precariously perched on a slope and provided perfect respite from the sun for a large huddle of people. I had to pay the usual vastly inflated tourist price of Rs650 to visit all the monuments and I seem to recall this was not the case on my first visit.
Despite the memory not quite matching the reality of things now, Mamallappuram remains a special place and I was really glad to go back.
The journey back was pretty smooth and I waved farewell to my driver, who having followed instructions, had not taken me to a shop and I was happy to give him the customary tip. He was a nice man who clearly worked hard and took pride in his appearance and wanted to learn better English. I also got to speak to his daughter on the phone! If you ever need a driver in Chennai, let me know as I have his number and he’d be most keen!
On arriving back at the hotel I needed a snooze and a swim. Duly refreshed, I showered and had another British Empire in the bar before going for dinner. I decided to eat in the hotel seeing that I would be eating poorly over the next day and a half and also on account of local options being limited. I wanted better than an OK Biryani. The restaurant is supposedly well known and been there for over 30 years and was certainly lovely inside, especially as there were 3 musicians playing traditional instruments. This always reminds me of a fabulous Indian restaurant in Hong Kong my wife and I used to eat at and where she went in to labour with our 3rd child!
I decided to opt for the Thali on the basis that it I was in Tamil Nadu and it was my last day. The amount of food was ridiculous however. I probably ate double what I needed to and only finished half it. At Rs2,200 I was also annoyed that so much went to waste and really spoilt what could’ve been been excellent. I mentioned this on checking out but was simply told Indians like to eat a lot.
The disappointment was further compounded by missing Liverpool FC score 3 goals in the first 15 minutes and then promptly conceding 3 once I was watching in my room, before scoring the winner in the 4th minute of added time. I am thankful however for the merits of a VPN and went to sleep late but reasonably happy!
