Rail adventure/challenge part 2. The idea for this probably came in to being a little under a year ago on a family trip to India when we took the train from Delhi to Agra. I had travelled extensively around India during my late 20’s backpacking days and been in my complete element. The short journey to Agra reminded me of this and got me thinking how I’d love to do it again.
Then opportunity presented itself. As I’ve mentioned, I’m not in to gardening and I want to ensure that I maximise my 3 months gardening leave – so as I sat on numerous trains whizzing around the UK a few weeks back, an idea took root. Some rapid planning and utilisation of near expiring airline miles, saw me piece together a 3,800 mile slog around the country in 2 weeks on a total of 6 trains, 4 of which will be sleepers (and one of 27hrs duration!). It’s not going to be easy by any means and temperatures are currently well in excess of 30C. So, with a combination of hotel points and/or incredible value for money 5 star hotels, I should hopefully get some decent non-rail based sleep in this slightly mad adventure!
I flew via Helsinki with Finnair. Not the quickest but time was not really an issue and I used expiring mileage to book a business class ticket at much less taxes cost than the direct flight with BA in Premium economy. The flight from LHR-HEL confirmed that if you are paying for business on a short-haul in Europe, it’s really not worth it. After a 5 hour layover in Helsinki in a very average lounge, I lucked out with the flight to Delhi being operated by a newly fitted out A330 with the new Finnair fixed shell business class product. This isn’t an airline review and whilst the seat had some oddities, it was exceptionally comfortable as a flat bed and wonderfully cocooned. As there were only 10pax, it was very quiet and also clear that’s why it was so easy to get a redemption ticket – something worth bearing in mind!
Arriving into Delhi just before 0500 was very smooth at Immigration and sorting out an Indian SIM card. Again, time was in my favour so I took the airport express one stop to Aerocity where I was staying for 1 night at the Holiday Inn, the same place we stayed as a family on our last night in summer 2022. It was a little too early for an early check in, so I changed left my bags, and headed in to Delhi on the train, easy as you like. Arriving at New Delhi Railway Station, I couldn’t resist wandering in to the station – to breathe in and observe the atmosphere and proceedings. Wonderful. I could’ve jumped on the first train I saw!
I didn’t and headed in to Pahar Ganj for a wander around the backstreets and then a 2nd breakfast at a little cafe opposite where we’d sat as a family last summer and where my daughter had revisited in January at the start of her travels! I think by 09:30 I’d been on the station twice, had a couple of cups of chai, one chilled fresh Mango juice from a street stand (no water – but forgot about the ice element here to make it cold…) and one masala omelette toast! Brilliant.
Zipped back to the hotel at 10:30, quick dip in the pool and out again to the National Rail Museum of India – what I thought would be a fun way of kicking off this rail based trip. Unfortunately, it was closed for Eid. Shame. I then headed in to Old Delhi and wandered around the Red Fort which had also been closed when we came in summer. Extremely busy but lovely. Had to battle a raging thirst with the heat and eventually sore feet from sandal wearing! Might have dozed off a few times sat down in the shade of a tree!
From the Red Fort I headed down Chandni Chowk and the surrounding areas of the Jama Masjid which was absolutely heaving and chaotic. As it was in summer. A couple of the famous kebab restaurants were closed but a mango seller recommended a place which was worthy of the recommendation. He was a little disappointed that I only bought one (large) mango which I ultimately devoured later at my hotel.
Being a solo diner I was assigned to a table and after a couple of group table photos with new found friends, I enjoyed a couple of kebabs, with fabulous tandoor roti and a lamb curry recommended by my friends. Navigated my way back to the metro station and a couple of changes later was back in the air conditioned comfort of the Holiday Inn and in dire need of a refreshing beer. Having truly acclimatised to local prices, the cost of a single bottle of Corona – Rs650 (approx. £6.50) which was 150% more than I paid for my dinner – was shocking (even though I knew it would be the case). And it’s not as if I can just pop to the 7-11, local garage or supermarket to buy a can or two for the end of day reward/rehydration and put it in the room minibar. Hey ho. Sure I’ll survive.
My stomach as not survived it’s first 24hrs however. Probably all the street food/drinks. Not bad – but clearly a welcome back to India!
I was only meaning to keep this intro short as I didnt think there was much to write about. But it’s India. There was a million things that happened yesterday that I could’ve written about. That’s one of the reasons I love this country so much. But I better push on. I’m meeting an ex-colleague who has very kindly invited me to lunch at her house and then the first mainline train of the trip – the Tejas Raj superfast express from Delhi to Mumbai overnight. Can’t wait.
